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Flaky, layered, and filled with seasoned meat or vegetables — the patty is one of the great portable foods, and Brooklyn eats an enormous number of them. Most people couldn't tell you the difference between the Haitian and Jamaican versions.
Here's what separates them, what to look for, and why this particular pastry travelled so well.
They get lumped together on menus, but they're genuinely different foods with different histories.
Half-moon shaped, with a golden-yellow crust from turmeric or annatto in the dough. The pastry is short and crumbly rather than layered — closer to a hand pie. Fillings lean spiced and saucy: beef with scotch bonnet, curried chicken, callaloo, lentil.
Usually rectangular or square, with a pale, blistered, distinctly layered crust — the dough is laminated with fat and folded, much closer to a puff pastry. The fillings are drier and more concentrated: smoked herring, codfish, seasoned chicken, sometimes beef.
Regardless of tradition, the tells are the same:
Both patties travelled here with people. Brooklyn holds one of the largest Haitian communities outside Haiti, and Caribbean immigration through the twentieth century built neighborhoods across Flatbush, East Flatbush, Crown Heights and Bed-Stuy where these foods aren't specialty items — they're what you grab on the way to work.
The patty in particular survived the journey intact because it was already designed to travel. It's a complete meal, needs no cutlery, holds its heat, and costs a few dollars. That's a food built for a working city.
We bake both traditions on Fulton Street, which is unusual — most shops pick a lane.
Standing up, out of the paper bag, within about ninety seconds of it leaving the oven. Coffee or a ginger shot alongside. That's it — this isn't a food that rewards ceremony.
Patties come out in batches through the morning. Mornings are your best bet for a hot one. Hours and directions here.